K League United
·14 July 2024
A postcard from Cheonan (with photos)
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K League United
·14 July 2024
As I move closer to my K League 2 completed league badge with Futbology, a stop-off in Cheonan was imperative. Cheonan might be known for a massive KTX station, but there is a young football club there outperforming their 2023 achievements. And what better time to visit than when the Bluewings are bringing almost 6,000 fans down Line 1. Here's my postcard from stormy Cheonan on Saturday night.
Traveling to Cheonan City is as straightforward as it gets, from most corners of the country. The city has a bus terminal operating primarily for Seoul, a KTX station shared with the neighboring city of Asan, and, despite not even being in Gyeonggi-do, it is served by Line 1 of the Seoul metro system. The stadium is centrally located, next to City Hall.
Even long-term visitors to Korea might struggle to place Cheonan on the map. Despite the Hall of Independence and major regeneration, especially by the stadium, it is Korea's version of a fly-over state, but this time on board a high-speed train. From Seoul, Busan, Daegu, Gwangju, and Mokpo, trains stop at Cheonan-Asan Station. Does anyone get off?
We drove the 80 km south down the Gyeong-bu expressway, flanked by cars waving Suwon flags once we passed the city. As the kilometers ticked by, pre-match lunch was the only thing on my mind. And we settled for dwaeji-galbi. There's nothing better than a BBQ with endless sidedishes and a cold bottle of Terra before a big match.
All photos from my personal account: Instagram.com/groundhopkoreafc
Thoroughly satisfied, it was time to check in on Futbology. Treating this match as a groundhopping experience as well as an opportunity to sample the incredible Suwon support up close, my initial plans to walk around the stadium's exterior to take photos were abruptly refused by stewards. Wearing a Bluewings uniform didn't help my cause. Security directed every away fan to walk to the left, away from the main stand. It was over-zealous but them's the rules I guess.
First glimpse of Cheonan Stadium from the car park. Away fans, please walk left.
The momentary distraction did allow a sneak peek into the club shop. The store is, to be frank, tiny. There are very nice training tops and jerseys, but most of the merchandise is small stickers or pins. It would take less than 60 seconds to realize this shop wasn't worth spending more time in.
Normally the main stand has some unique features like giant posters of players, the team schedule, tarping featuring the club's crest, or some light show. That will forever remain a mystery to me as we were pushed past the miniature club shop and two food trucks towards the South Stand of Cheonan Stadium.
With an hour to go, it was clear Suwon had traveled in huge numbers. The unofficial figure spreading before kick-off was 6,000, but it was later rounded down to 5,400, a K League 2 record for an away support. It is also worth remembering the six blocks were completely sold out. Cheonan City FC generated 43 million from the away end alone. Had they opened another section, Cheonan would have banked over 50 million.
As is tradition across the league, the away fans gathered under the seats to run through their playlist of songs and chants. This usually involves a dozen men jumping shirtless, several flags of various sizes waving, and about 300 people, including me, recording the whole experience. The contrast between the harsh, gray concrete and the blue, red, and white jerseys was worth the ear-splitting noise. As kick-off was approaching and the players already doing their last warm-up, I made my way to the stand.
Time to run through the playlist before the game.
Seats, however, are on a first come first serve basis. Still, I was pleased to stand at the back, near the corner flag. The opportunity to take photos and videos, and not have your view interrupted by huge flags and shirtless men jumping for 90 minutes is a glorious one. As the players prepared to enter, the clouds approached. Big, dirty black clouds brought rain, thunder, and lightning. The perfect backdrop.
Poor Fejsal Mulić. The big Serbian was a source of comedy to the away end as he practiced his shooting before the match. Most of his attempts missed the target, much to Suwon's amusement. They weren't laughing when he missed two sitters in the first half and was hauled off at the break. It wouldn't surprise me if that's the last we see of Mulić in blue. A shame, because he's a nice bloke and a great entertainer.
The storm clouds added to the electric atmosphere.
Those embarrassing misses aside, Suwon were worryingly outplayed in the opening half by a team that is winless in Baekseok this year. Paulinho gave Cheonan a deserved halftime lead, and Suwon were booed off. Mulic was the last Bluewing to touch the ball before keeper Yang Hyeong-mo's hand wasn't strong enough to keep it out.
If any fans were having doubts about Byun Sung-hwan, they were surely dispelled at the break. The new man made three changes, removing Peter Makrillos, Lee Kyu-dong and Mulić. The tempo changed immediately with Suwon utterly dominating Cheonan, spurning numerous good chances before debutant Lee Kyu-dong tapped home the equalizer.
The umbrella display at the start of the second half is always cool.
The damage was all coming down the left, where teenage sensation Park Seung-soo was having the game of his life. Byun rang more changes and by the end, Suwon represented an underage team. They got the winner they thoroughly deserved through substitute midfielder Kim Sang-jun. Cue pandemonium. The away end went absolutely mental, sending the 5,300 home happy.
Cheonan has a population of 660,000 people. The club is new, but the stadium is also relatively modern compared to a few of the other civic grounds. They have one of the best forward lines in K League 2 and are clearly outperforming last season. They look like a nice club, always playing the underdog. Hopefully, more fans show up, although they might need Anyang-style temporary seating. The official attendance was 10,432, meaning the home supporters accounted for 50% of the total.
Bedlam after a last-minute winner.
Cheonan chalked off, three more points for Suwon, late drama and a brilliant Paulinho performance were the highlights. Two left for my Futbology badge; Jeonnam Dragons and Busan IPark.